**In this post we are going to be making a facial moisturizer for acne-prone skin.**

*Let’s learn about some of the different types of acne this moisturizer may help address!*

Face Moisturizer Formulation for Acne Prone Skin

This post may contain links but they are not affiliate links. I am not in any sort of affiliate program at this time. They are links to things I actually use

Before we get to the formulation let’s talk a bit about some of the different types of acne & which types may benefit from this moisturizer.

Types of acne this moisturizer may help address

Keep in mind these are just a few of the more common types of acne

Blackheads AKA open comedones:

What: Common type of mild non-inflammatory acne
Appearance: Small raised bumps with a black tip
Cause: Buildup of dead skin cells & bacteria. The pore is open & widened so that when the contents are exposed to air the air oxidizes the buildup & makes it appear darker in color

Whiteheads AKA closed comedones

What: mild non-inflammatory acne
Appearance: white spots or bumps that stay closed at the surface

Cause: clogged hair follicles by a build-up of sebum & dead skin cells

General treatment options for blackheads & whiteheads

Non-medical options:

Avoiding over washing & irritating the skin
Avoiding harsh products with high drying alcohol content
Eating a healthy & balanced diet
Keeping hydrated
Limiting sun exposure
Leaving them alone, no not pick, scratch or pop blackheads or whiteheads. This may increase your risk of infection

Medical options:

Salicylic acid
Glycolic acid

Lactic acid
Benzoyl peroxide
Sulfur

Papules

What: mild to moderate inflammatory acne
Appearance: solid, tender & lacking fluid. Small superficial raised areas of the skin. It may appear slightly swollen & red
Cause: whiteheads & blackheads that are irritated & damage the surrounding skin. Picking & squeezing can further aggravate the inflammation & may lead to scarring

Pustules AKA pimples

What: mild to moderate acne that are infected with bacteria
Appearance: Papules that develop at the mouth of a hair follicle & they look like larger & more inflamed whiteheads. You may notice some pus in the center & they are typically surrounded by red & inflamed skin
Cause: whites blood cells, dead skin cells & bacteria form pus

Acne Vulgaris AKA common acne

What: Common skin condition affecting teenagers & young adults, but it can occur at any age.
Appearance: pimples, blackheads & cysts
Cause: blockage & inflammation of hair follicles It is tied to hormonal changes, excess oil production & bacteria

Acne Mechanica

What: mild skin condition that can develop anywhere on the face & body if the person is prone to breakouts. It is common in adolescents
Appearance: varies from small comedones to mildly inflamed papules & pustules
Cause: triggered by excess heat, pressure, friction or rubbing of the skin

Treatment options for papules, pustules, acne vulgaris & acne mechanica:

Non-medical options:

The same lifestyle suggestions as above
Applying warm compresses to the affected area to encourage the bacteria & debris to rise to the surface of the skin

Washing the affected area with cool water
Not picking or squeezing the acne as the bacteria trapped can spread to the surrounding skin

Medical options:

Salicylic acid

Benzoyl peroxide
Retinoids
Topical antibiotics
Antiandrogen agents

Types of acne this moisturizer might not be able to help address

If you have any of the following types of acne I would start to consider gut health support as a treatment option to use alongside working with a healthcare professional

That is not to say that the moisturizer would be helpful in these situations but it can still be used as an option alongside some other interventions

Nodules

What: one of the most severe forms of acne.
Appearance: large & inflamed lumps that feel firm to the touch & are located deep within the skin. They are painful but not always red. They look like large papules with no visible center. They can appear like your normal skin tones or like mildly bruised bumps
Cause: pores become clogged & C. acnes bacteria, which is naturally present on the skin becomes trapped causing infection, inflammation & pain

Cysts AKA Cystic acne

What: severe inflammatory acne
Appearance: large, soft pus filled lumps deep within the skin. They are deeper within the skin that nodules
Cause: hormonal changes

These types of acne can cause dark spots & scarring if left unattended

Treatment options for nodules & cysts:

Non-medical options:

The same suggestions as above

Medical options:

Antibiotics or different types of oral medications

Working with a dermatologist or medical professional

Acne conglobata

What: rare, but it is a severe combination of several types of acne that interconnect with each other. This occurs when cysts & nodules begin to grow together deep inside the skin
Appearance: The cysts often contain foul-smelling discharge. It may appear on the face, chest, back, upper arms, buttocks & thighs

Treatment for acne conglobata:

Non-medical options:

The same suggestions as above

Medical options:

Immediate medical attention as significant scarring & skin disfiguration can occur over time

Antibiotics
Oral contraceptives
Retinoids
Topical steroids
Chemical peels
Drainage & extraction

Please be sure to leave drainage & extractions to the professionals as serious scarring can occur if it is not done properly or under sanitary conditions. This is not to say your house is dirty or unsanitary, but let’s face it, it probably isn’t as clean as a hospital or Doctor’s office would be. The last thing we would want to do is introduce a different strain of bacteria to an open wound.

If you are experiencing severe inflammatory type acne, you may want to consider addressing gut health & liver congestion as that may be a contributing factor.

Sometimes where the acne is on the skin can signify the health of certain organs. Especially if it is stubborn acne that won’t clear up no matter what you’re doing & keeps happening in the same place on the face. I like to reference an acne face map in those situations.

*Image of acne zone map*
If you have persistent acne in any of these zones, perhaps there is an organ or system that is trying to get your attention.

Face Moisturizer Formulation for Acne Prone Skin

One of the treatment options for blackheads, whiteheads, papules, pustules, acne vulgaris & acne mechanica salicylic acid. The first ingredient I want to talk about is a natural & gentle alternative to salicylic acid is white willow bark extract

White willow bark extract contains a substance from which salicylic acid is derived. It is not as effective as a pure synthetic salicylic acid but it is an option for an at home treatment

Synthetic salicylic acid can be harsh to the skin, especially in higher concentrations. Overuse can even lead to skin irritation, dryness & peeling.

Salicylic acid is a suspected endocrine disruptor as high amounts of salicylic acid can mimic estrogen. Endocrine disruptors can contribute to hormonal acne

Always try to use salicylic acid in a safe concentration so you don't get any adverse effects or reactions, this would be 0.5-2% in over the counter skin care products.

Let’s talk now about the active ingredients that are going into this moisturizer

White Willow Bark Botanical Extract (14:1)

INCI: Salix alba L.
Antioxidant due to its flavonoid content
It contains phytochemicals called tannins, which have astringent properties helping to shrink pores & address oiliness
Contains a minimum of 5% salicin, which is a chemical that is similar to aspirin. Salicin contains anti-inflammtory properties
In skin care it has an ability to minimize the oiliness of the skin, soothe rough skin, irritations & redness.
Topical applications of salicin may also improve facial wrinkles, fine lines, uneven skin tone, pigmentation & skin firmness
Recommended usage rate is 0.1-1%. 1 part extract dissolved in 10 parts of warmed distilled water (45-50C)

Sage Hydrosol

INCI: Salvia Officinalis Water
Botanical Name: Salvia officinalis

Helps to control the production of sebum
Antioxidant rich, anti-inflammatory & soothing
Suitable for most skin types, mature, combination to oily, acne- prone, dull or sensitive skin

Tallow

INCI: Tallow
I refined mine myself from beef suet from grass-fed cows that I acquire from a local farm. Learn how to render your own tallow HERE
Can be purchased in RBD form - refined, bleached & deodorized
Has a similar make up to the sebum found on our skin meaning it’s compatible with the skin & is even able to penetrate deeper into the layers of the skin
Highest source of Conjugated Linoleic Acid, (CLA) which is an essential fatty acid that can help improve hydration, elasticity & the skin barrier. CLA allows moisture to move freely in & out of our cells. These increased levels of CLA are only found in grass-fed tallow as it’s actually the grass diet & sunlight the cattle receives that provides it with this benefit. You will not find the same levels of CLA in factory farmed, corn or grain fed cattle
Rich in vitamins A, D, E, K & B12
Suitable for all skin types from dry, to oily, combination, mature & sensitive
If you are vegan, you can just skip this ingredient & add more of our next ingredient

Shea Butter

INCI: Butyrospermum parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit
Protecting & emollient properties
Stimulates the production of collagen & may help with the appearance of scars
Rich in vitamins A, E & F
May help with eczema, psoriasis & various rashes
Provides long lasting hydration & helps to soften the skin
Has the ability to protect the skin from UV rays
If you are allergic to natural latex, you should avoid this butter in the raw form. From my research refined shea butter has the latex proteins removed & therefore it should be safe to use, however I would test patch a bit of refined shea butter to see if you have a reaction if this is a butter you want to try to use.

Time to make our moisturizer. I will be sharing the amounts in percentages so that you can easily upscale or downscale this formulation. When made as written it will make a 100g batch

Equipment:

2 Heat proof containers
2 non heat proof containers
Digital scale
Whisks
Spatulas
Stick blender
70% isopropyl alcohol for sanitizing
Storage container

Formulation:

Phase A- heated oil phase

8% Emulsifying Wax NF

2% Cetyl Alcohol

5% Tallow

5% Shea Butter

7% Sweet Almond Oil

Phase B- heated water phase

39.5% Distilled Water

25% Sage Hydrosol

4% Propanediol 1,3

Phase C- cool down phase

0.5% Liquid Germall Plus

0.2 % MT-50

Phase D- active phase

0.3% White Willow Bark Extract Powder

3% Warm Distilled Water

Instructions:

Weigh out phase A into a heat proof container
Weigh out phase B into a heat proof container
Weigh out phase C in a beaker
Weigh out phase C(2) & dissolve the extract in warmed distilled water (45-50C)
Heat phase A & B simultaneously until they reach 70-80C
Pour phase B into phase A
Start by giving it a few pulses with an immersion blender, allow to cool for a few moments so you don’t spray hot lotion all over the place, then blend until homogenous
Place in the fridge to cool, stirring occasionally
Remove from the fridge when it is below 40C
Add phase C & C(2) together & stir thoroughly
Add phase C to the cooled mixture
Allow to sit in the fridge overnight & package after 24 hours once it has reached full viscosity

Substitutions & recommendations:

For a vegan option skip the tallow & add more shea butter
Switch out the shea butter for a different butter
Switch out the almond oil for a different carrier oil
Switch out the propanediol 1,3 for a different humectant such as glycerin.
Switch out the hydrosol for a different one, or you can add more distilled water
You could raise the amount of white willow bark extract. I would go in 0.1% increments being sure to stay within the recommended usage rate of 1% of the entire formulation. The ratio is 1 part extract dissolved in 10 parts of hot distilled water (45-50C)
You could lower the amount of white willow bark extract following the same ratio of 1 part extract to 10 parts hot distilled water
You could use an essential oil if desired. Be sure to follow the IFRA recommended usage rate & add it to phase C

I can say that one of my nephews has cleared his acne by using this moisturizer & the Emulsified Facial Cleanser. Don't take my word for it, try it out for yourself!

Comment down below & let me know what is your go to method for helping treat acne or blemishes? I’d love to hear about it