**While it may seem contradictory to wash your face with an oil based product, what if I told you this was actually a way to get your face cleaner?!?**

*Let's make this emulsified oil facial cleanser & you'll see what I mean!*

Emulsified Oil Facial Cleaner Formulation

This post may contain links but they are not affiliate links. I am not in any sort of affiliate program at this time. They are links to things I actually use.

I don’t know about you but I find the amount of facial products we have available to us to be slightly overwhelming. Many of them in my opinion are simply overpriced and rarely live up to their claims to fame.

All I wanted was something to use to wash my face. Something that has simple ingredients & won’t break the pocketbook.

That’s when I stumbled across the concept of oil cleansers. These are a far cry from what I’ve found in the store but something about their humble ingredients piqued my interest.

So I decided I wanted to learn how to make this cleanser for myself & the early versions consisted of tallow & a few oils I had in my kitchen. While it did make my face feel cleaner than even the most expensive of products did, it left a lot to be desired.

With a few gentle tweaks I now have a product that I love to use that leaves me feeling fresh & clean

This lovely oil cleanser works on the principle of like attracts like which means that the oils on this cleanser will be attracted to the oil on your face so when you wash away this cleanser all the dirt, oils & debris will be washed away.

Benefits of Oil Cleansing

Removes excess sebum from the skin
Cleans out clogged pores
Removes dead skin, environmental pollutants
Can be used as a makeup remover
Balances the skin & locks in hydration
May help prevent acne

The bulk of this formulation is shea butter & tallow coming in at a whopping 46%. The oil portion which is a mixture of different weights of oils comes in at 36.5%. For those like me who may struggle with math, Dyscalculia for the win some days, that means this formulation holds a total of 82.5% fats & oils.

The other 17.5% is a combination of an emulsifier, a stabilizer, a booster, an antioxidant & a preservative. Please do not entertain skipping the preservative as that can be dangerous. We use preservatives to inhibit bacteria, fungi & mold, which are not always visible to the naked eye.

Unless you can absolutely guarantee that you will never put wet or damp fingers in this, which as someone who has used this product can prove to be difficult, just err on the side of caution & choose a broad spectrum preservative. I will be using liquid germall plus but you can use a different preservative if you so choose to, just be sure to follow the manufacturers recommendations on the amount you need to use.

Fat & Oils Overview

Shea butter is packed full of vitamins & nutrients your skin not only loves it actually requires

Tallow, a rendered fat, is full of vitamins & is very close to the sebum found on your skin & it is therefore very easily absorbed.

If you wanted to choose a different butter or fat you could, just be sure to keep the ratios similar.

Sunflower oil → light oil good for combination skin

Olive oil → heavy oil beneficial for dry skin

Sweet almond oil → light calming oil for dry, oily & sensitive skin

Castor oil → a natural astringent able to pull out impurities from the skin. If you have sensitive skin use with caution & consider using jojoba oil in its place

Oil & butter substitutions

Cocoa butter

Natural moisturizer from the cacao bean
Contains antioxidant & anti-inflammatory properties helping to protect against premature aging
Can help boost skin's elasticity
Good for dry skin

Mango butter

Contains tannins which can help this butter feel drier than other butters
May soften the skin
Naturally antibacterial & antimicrobial, even with these benefits you will still require a preservative
May be helpful in addressing fine lines & wrinkles
Good for all skin types

Kokum butter

May reduce dryness
Source of antioxidants
Hydrates the skin, enhances skin elasticity & reduces transdermal water loss
Anti-inflammatory which can help various skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis & dermatitis
Generally safe for all skin types

Apricot Kernel Oil

Light oil
Skin softening & moisturizing effects
Anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, antia-ging, antiseptic & antibacterial properties
Non irritating & soothing to the skin

Avocado Oil

Medium to heavy oil that absorbs well
Hydrates skin
With regular use can reduce pore size & remove impurities
May reverse the signs of aging due to its antioxidant effects

Camellia Oil

Light oil
Non-greasy
Great for people who have acne due to its antibacterial qualities
Can help improve skin tone, tighten the skin & improve signs of aging

Coconut Oil

Traditional (solid at 76F/24C & below) can be heavy & potentially pore clogging
Fractionated versions are considered a light oil
Stimulates collagen production
Rich in vitamin E
Provides anti-inflammatory & anti-itch benefits

Grapeseed Oil

Light, dry oil
Has a very short shelf life of 3-6 months
Full of antioxidant & anti-inflammatory properties
May speed up the healing of acne & reducing redness
Can help protect against sun damage
May reduce the appearance of wrinkles & stretch marks

Jojoba Oil

Light oil
Acne treatment as it is similar to the sebum found on the skin
Helps balance oil production of the skin
Won’t clog pores
Softens & soothes the skin

Rice Bran Oil

Medium oil
Rich in unsaponifiable oils
Full of antioxidants & may help fight the signs of aging
Rich in fatty acids & can help protect the skin's barrier while retaining moisture
May help prevent UVB-induced skin damage
May help address hyperpigmentation
Moisturizing, softening & anti-inflammatory benefits

Suggestions based on skin conditions:

For dry skin:

Olive oil
Coconut oil
Avocado oil

For sensitive skin:

Jojoba oil
Rosehip oil
Avoid castor oil

For oily/acne prone skin:

Jojoba oil
Argan oil
Marula oil
Castor oil

When purchasing your oils be sure to find ones that are cold-pressed & virgin whenever possible.

How to Infuse Oils

When it comes to infusing your oils you have a few different options

Levo Oil Infuser & Decarboxylator. This machine is a staple in my formulation lab. While it is marketed typically for use in the cannabis world, but you can infuse any herb, root or seed into a liquid such as oil, butter & even honey
Double Boiler method
No-heat, cold-infusion method. This is the easiest & slowest method but essentially you just place your dried herb into a jar & cover it with oil. Allow it to sit in a warm window sill for 4-6 weeks, strain & enjoy

Check out these blog posts for more details on the first two methods:

Levo Herbal Infuser

Double Boiler Method

Emulsified Oil Facial Cleanser Formulation

The Emulsifier & Surfactant Connection

Did you know that at their core chemical composition emulsifiers & surfactants are the same? The difference comes in the application

Emulsifiers are a substance that helps to stabilize & mix together 2 or more substances that normally do not mix, such as oil & water. They contain a hydrophilic (water-attracting) head & a lipophilic (oil attracting) tail & this is what creates the emulsion.

Surfactants are compounds that lower the surface tension between two substances allowing them to mix more easily. They also have the same hydrophilic head & lipophilic tail as emulsifiers do.

Surfactant stands for Surface Active Matter & they are typically used when we make liquid shampoos, soaps & washes.

**Lipid structure with the hydrophilic head & lipophilic tail**

Key functions in cosmetics:

Cleansing abilities breaking down oils & removing dirt from the skin
Foaming abilities
Wetting agents that help move liquids more easily across a surface
Emulsifying properties

So what does all this mean?

Simply put emulsifiers are a specific type of surfactant

For our emulsifier we are going to be using an ingredient called Olivem 1000 which has a specific cleansing element that is beneficial in helping to remove & wash away dirt & oils from the skin.

Olivem1000 is derived from olive oil which contains a specific fatty acid profile of cetearyl olivate & sorbitan olivate which are both known for their skin softening properties.

According to one of the manufacturers: “It is a biomimetic ingredients that is specifically designed to mimic the physiological processes & chemical composition of human skin for complete skin affinity & maximum performance”

It is a COSMOS validated product which means it is guaranteed to be an organic & natural cosmetic ingredient.

The Final Ingredients

Cetyl alcohol

A fatty alcohol that helps stabilize the emulsion but it is not an emulsifier
Used typically as a thickener in lotions, salves & body butters without adding the weight or tackiness of wax
Gives the finished product a silky finish
This ingredient is permitted in natural cosmetic formulations

Polysorbate 80

Adds cleansing power & boosts rinse off abilities
Derived from sorbitol & oleic acid. Oleic acid is a very moisturizing ingredient that can help the skin cells regenerate quickly. It is also well absorbed by the skin & acts as an anti-inflammatory
Helps to ensure a uniform texture & overall pleasant sensory experience
It is considered to be a safe cosmetic ingredient by the CIR (Cosmetic Review Expert Panel)
Read the full report HERE

Formulation 100 g Batch:

Phase A- Heated Oil

25% Shea Butter

21% Tallow

11.5% Sunflower Oil

10% Olive Oil (chamomile infused)

5% Castor Oil

6% Olivem 1000

Phase B- Cool Down

0.5% Liquid Germall Plus

Equipment:

Double boiler
Stainless steel bowl for mixing
Whisk
Spatula
Precision Scale
Bowl to make an ice bath
Cold water & ice
Hand Mixer
Pipettes for measuring (recommended but not necessary)
Beaker or small bowl for measuring

Instructions:

Prepare a double boiler & bring it to a simmer
Weigh out Phase A into a stainless steel bowl
Weigh out Phase B into a small beaker & put aside
Place Phase A on the double boiler & allow the ingredients to fully melt, being sure to stir periodically
Prepare an ice bath
Once Phase A is fully melted & incorporated, place it on the water bath. This goes pretty quickly from this point so be prepared to work fast
Keep stirring Phase A as it begins to cool. It will start to turn into a somewhat gloopy texture which is what you’re looking for
Bring the mixture up to trace. You want to be able to drip the mixture back on itself & see exactly where you dripped.
Stir in & fully incorporate Phase B
Place container in the freezer for 30 minutes or until firm
Once firm whip with a hand mixer until the mixture is white & fluffy
Pour into a clean, sterile container & it’s ready to use!

Notes & substitution recommendations

If made as written the pH should be around 5.5
Since this is a wash off product refrain from adding expensive active ingredients, oils or butters, keep it simple with what you have
This is a deep cleaning method so choose once a day to use this cleanser, it is not necessary to use it every time you wash your face.
When you first start using this cleanser you might notice something called purging as your skin adjusts to this method of deep cleaning. This may mean additional breakouts or dry skin as your skin adjusts & it should subside within a week or two depending on what adjustments your skin is needing to make.
If you notice any itchy, raw or inflamed skin stop using it, the oils might be too strong for your face & adjustments may be required
If you have sensitive skin, switch out the castor oil which can cause the skin to dry out more due to its antibacterial properties.
You can substitute any oil as long as the entire oil portion is around 37%.
You can use emulsifying wax nf instead of olivem1000
You could substitute Cetyl alcohol for cetearyl alcohol but your finished product may be heavier
If you wanted to add essential oils, subtract the amount from the shea butter portion & add into phase B. Following the IFRA recommendations, always be sure to weigh & measure your essential oils using a scale & pipette, not by drops as that is one of the most inaccurate ways to use essential oils.

How to Oil Cleanse:

Put a small amount of cleanser in the palm of your hands & rub hands together to warm up the cleanser
Massage gently into the face using your finger tips
Apply a warm damp washcloth on your face & allow it to sit for a moment or two
Gently wipe away the oil
Rinse the cloth & wipe again if needed
Pat dry (if desired) & apply a moisturizer or hydration spray

Comment down below & let me know, how did your skin feel after you used this?

Be sure to come back next week & learn how to make a hydrating facial mist which is a perfect follow up to this cleanser